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Saying GoodBye to A Friend

| Posted in Words from Team ERA |

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Vladimir Vanha en memoriam

by Ken Kastorff

It was with sadness that I learned that one of kayaking’s most influential design pioneers passed away recently–Vladimir Vanha.

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Playing Favorites

| Posted in Southern Connection Tales |

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Most of us have a favorite river.  But when you run many different rivers it is hard to call one single section a “favorite.�  Instead, it is easier having a favorite style of river (i.e.: big water or steep creeking).  But that also gets thrown out a bit because in Costa Rica and Ecuador, you are often combining creek style paddling on bigger volume rivers.
 If there was an exception, it might be a day like the one we just spent on the canyon run of the Quijos River.  Okay, it is December and we were in short sleeves. That is bonus point number one.  Number two is that we were the sole two paddlers on the entire river on such a gorgeous day. 
 

And number three is this section of river itself: described as something between the Ocoee and the Gauley.  Big pushy moves, but big lines.  Big holes necessitating the scurry factor to kick in, but time to make the move.  And at the end of steep, pushy, wave train rapids, finding yourself floating between canyon walls formed by age-old lava flows.  When the lava flows hit the water once-upon-a-geological-time, giant star burst walls were formed.  So you float through these short canyons, feeling like you are taking a step back in time…and then head out the other side to yet another rapid.
 The two most significant rapids on this section (the only two we ever reference by name) are Panel of Experts—or Logan’s Leap. We named it Logan’s Leap ten years ago when one of our first paddlers made the rather unwise decision to cut to the left instead of the right side of a big boulder, and leapt into a ledge hole backed by an eddy.  Of course he got trundled or he would not have had the rapid named after him!! 
 

You start out Logan’s Leap eddy hopping about a quarter of the way down, then drop over a ledge riding a curling wave, which then sets you up for the second half of the rapid: a big water move from middle to the right, dodging curling waves to keep your line.  The last move is the surprise hole at the bottom that you try and scurry around, or just face off and punch through.  And because water levels can vary from one day to the next (for example, we ran the Canyon section at 3 on the gauge, and the next day the water was up to 9 on the gauge—a big jump after a night of rain!) the rapid is always a bit different. 
 The second named rapid (in our book; as just about every rapid has now been named since the 2005 International Raft Competition was held on the Quijos) is Curvas Peligrosas.  This is a weird rapid. You enter from the left rocketing towards the eddy line formed by a giant pillow off the river right, which sides up to a huge rotating eddy on the left. On line is following about a two foot path down the eddy line.  If you are off to the left, you find yourself recirculating about in the eddy; too far to the right and you are spanking the water at a minimum—more likely executing multiple rolls.  And the fun is not over!! The eddy line rockets you to the river-left wall down below, at which time you have to turn and get as far back over to the right as possible in about five seconds, because down below is a huge hole that you absolutely do not want to hit.  Wahoo! 
 

And then into another gorgeous lava-walled canyon…and just downstream a kick ass set of waves that just dare you to square off and run right down the middle.  And then too soon, you go through one last lava-walled canyon to the takeout.  The takeout is the only disappointing part of the day, as you could just keep going (and can, but you begin another full-day run).
 Does it get any better? Sure—the next time we run this section! 
 

And now we are back in Quito to gather up our first group.  They arrived last night for a trip that will combine a great week of paddling with a chance to experience the New Years Eve celebrations so famous here in Ecuador.  We will head out of Quito this afternoon, along the way picking up a muñeca to burn (an ecuadorian tradition where straw-stuffed effigies are used to burn away the bad karma from the previous year and begin with a clean slate).  This will happen at our favorite monkey lodge where we will begin our week of paddling and celebrate the new year.
 Prospero Ano Nuevo!
 

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Sardines and Chocolate for Christmas

| Posted in Southern Connection Tales |

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 The ERA team has had some unusual Christmas experiences together.  Because of trip schedules and travel restrictions over the holidays, we have often finished up our trips in Costa Rica and headed straight down to Ecuador. This allows us time to do a run-down of the rivers ahead of times; while more than once we have landed and gone straight into a trip. 

 
So Christmas Day has found us in a variety of locations.  We have been on the river, eating peanut butter and jelly sandwiches.  In the spirit of giving, we shared an extra sandwich with a couple that passed us that day, leading their horse laden with fruit along the river.  Peanut butter not being the famous food product it is at home, we are not sure if they ate the sandwich or fed it to the horse! 

 
We have celebrated Christmas in a jungle lodge, surrounded by chattering monkeys and eating hand-smoked salmon brought down by friends on the trip who called Alaska home at the time. 

 
Last year we were on a big road trip, testing out our new coaster from one end of Ecuador to the other (hey—we had to make sure it was road worthy!).  And Christmas found us in the small town of Machala along the west coast, drinking rum and cokes.

 
Christmas 2006 landed us in Quito for the holiday.  Fortunately, Quito is so full of tourists that a fair number of restaurants remained open.  And certainly the Internet Café was open and full of extranjeros calling/emailing lonely messages home.  It was a beautiful sunny day, so we walked down to the central park and into one of the gorgeous cathedrals found here in Quito- Santa Teresita.

 
Many built in the 1500 and 1600’s, there are so many cathedrals, monasteries and basilicas in Quito that Santa Teresita does not even earn mention in the guide book.  You could spend a minimum of one full day touring the more renowned buildings.  Many here have suffered damage from earthquakes over the years and just as many have been restored to show off  walls gilded in gold, original artwork by famous Ecuadorian painters, woodcarvings dating back to the 1500’s, burial sites of heroes of battle, and beautiful stained glass windows.  Entering the hushed worship area of Santa Teresita we were awed by the examples of the early religious art and sculptures mounted on ornately sculptered pillars and walls.    It is hard to imagine how such beauty could have been carved out of concrete and store…by hand. And from the outside looking up at the spires reaching some 150 feet up into the heavens, we took a moment to ponder the use of scaffolding back then. Today much of the scaffolding consists of bamboo supports (probably not OSHA approved back home!!).  If bamboo scaffolding is state-of-the-art here, what would they have used back then? 

 
And then it was time for Christmas Dinner.  One of the only advantages to be found in not being with family for Christmas is that you can break tradition a bit.  Rather than the traditional Jacobsen Christmas dinner we would have enjoyed at home, we chose a rather-untraditional dinner of sardines and white chocolate! 

 
Feliz Navidad a todos!!
 
 

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Playing Grinch for Christmas

| Posted in Southern Connection Tales |

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We barely made it out of town this morning before the marching band, ice cream vendors, buckets of cokes vendors, as well as hordes of parade participants effused with the Christmas spirit took to the highway to parade from the town of Borja to El Chaco.  In our van stacked with kayaks and full of gringos, we could have become accidental-and certainly unlikely participant in the Annual Borja Christmas Parade in the Quijos Valley!
 
Our little paradise in the Quijos Valley is a hodge podge collection of contrasts as it is any time of year-not just at Christmas!  The valley is a pastoral setting: high elevation cloud forest enveloping the slopes of unusually-shaped ridges; ridges separated over geological time to open up a beautiful valley that trails the banks of the Quijos River. 

Originally populated by a hardy group of settlers who were willing to call home a long, two-day hike by foot over a 14,000 foot pass from Quito, this pastoral setting lasted until the late 60´s/early 70´s.  About this time came the discovery of oil in the northeasten region of Ecuador. To reach this area with all the production needed to extract the ¨black gold¨ a road was needed. And the road came right through the Quijos Valley. 
 
What you have today is an odd contrast of subsistence farmers who still hand milk their herds of cows in a dairy co-op broken up by a random van full of kayak tourism; people who consider their one-horse power vehicle as valuable as their neighbor´s pickup truck.  Here is a valley with beautiful clouds that settle down around the verdant ridge tops and a state-of-the-art oil processing plant that belches; where most people have only their feet to get them anywhere, but consider the pipeline that runs alongside the road a good sidewalk.  Here few hang anything more than a few sorry strands of tinsel for Christmas because there is not money for ornate decorations or gifts.  But during the Christmas Weekend, there will be no lack of family or festivity (Ecuadorians love a good party and will take any holiday as a good excuse).  With the kids on Christmas break, families will join together to eat freshly slaughtered pig (really fresh, we´ve been watching it all week), drink aquadiente in unlimited supplies, and break into a chorus of song punctuated by the random explosions of a disturbingly available collection of fireworks that could take out a whole handful of fingers!! 
 
And it is the song part of the festivities that motivated us to flee to Quito, for at each chorus every dog, cat, cow and rooster (no pigs, they will all be eaten) in town will join in.  This will go on for most of the night, for most of the weekend. 
 
And for us poor gringos who cannot seem to find a sleep cycle that is in cadence  with the dogs and roosters (an impossibility!) we are better off in a high rise hotel in Quito with our own version of Merry Christmas!
 
Feliz Navidad!
 

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Changing Latitudes

| Posted in Southern Connection Tales |

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Weird that Sunday morning we were eating gallo pinto in San Jose, Costa Rica….and Tuesday morning we were paddling our first run of the season in Ecuador. It is great to be back!!

We started out with a warm-up run (a good idea after landing at 10,000 feet, then coming over a 14,000 foot pass to a put in at 6500 feet altitude!) that ended up being more of a handful than planned because the river decided to do an about face on us. It was like someone took all the rocks on the river and shook them up and let them fall out to form whatever rapid they felt like. Rivers that change a lot keep the attention radar on full blast!

Then up to the Oyacachi River. The Oyacachi is one of those dream rivers for a Class IV creek boater. The river necessitates all the moves used on a steep creek, with the need to always be punching one hole or the other as a follow up move after a good boof.  It is challenging without being out of control (depending on the water level, of course, which today was near perfect).  And the scenery is awesome as the river comes out of a pristine national park with no development to be seen on either side. What an ideal day. Especially following it up with a $2.00 haircut in town, followed by a big bowl of popcorn (congeal) and a cold beer (cerveza).

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Traditions Cross Over Cultures

| Posted in Southern Connection Tales |

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It was strange to be departing Costa Rica this morning to catch a flight to Ecuador.  We have a schedule that is pretty much the opposite of 90% of the tourists that travel to Costa Rica: we arrive at the tail end of the rainy season, and leave when the rain stops and the beautiful Costa Rica blue skies (and all the tourists) appear. 
 
Driving to the airport, it was fun to mull over the way that Costa Rica celebrates Christmas traditions with the same enthusiasm we do. Well, not wanting to sound like one of the rich & famous that talk smack about US commercialism…but maybe no one else celebrates Christmas with the same commercial enthusiasm we do…but hey–they still celebrate in their own more subtle way!!
 
For the past few weeks we watched Christmas decorations go up on houses as we headed to the river.  And saw the Christmas trees set up on front porches. Interesting but many Costa Ricans display their trees on their porches for everyone to enjoy rather than tucked away in the house.  Every once-in-a-while we would even hear traces of a Christmas carol blaring from a blown out set of speakers. 
 
It is pretty funny to see collections of Santa Clauses adorning the homes of folks that have never seen snow! 
 
And as the first days of summer descended upon Costa Rica, so did the tamale making.  Probably the strongest Christmas tradition in Costa Rica is the making of Christmas tamales.  The tamales consist of tortillas full of a corn, meat, and stuffing of cilantro-type herbs, etc.  And then wrapped in banana leaves and cooked.  On one of our last days on the Reventazon, we were delayed from leaving the takeout while a group finished collecting up banana plant leaves used for wrapping up Christmas tamales. 
 
And this week families all over Costa Rica are elbow deep in tamale preparations.  The whole family joins in. Take for example the family of our second driver Johnny (his family defined as the size of a full-blown soccer team) They get together and make over three hundred tamales for the holidays. And eat every last one of them! 
 
Somehow this is a tradition that seems to sure beat the idea of suffering through multi-generation fruit cakes!! 
 
 

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Santa Claus Does Chanel, Clinic, Lancome and School Supplies!

| Posted in Southern Connection Tales |

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 Santa’s elves worked hard this summer collecting the best that Clinic, Lancome and Chanel had to offer any time they offered free gifts (with a purchase of course!!).  And after collecting samples all summer, it was time to bring everything down to Costa Rica and Ecuador to share.  To top off the treasure trove of gifts to share was the donation of an entire collection of Chanel products compliments of a good friend.  Sharing these gifts with folks that work hard to get along in life has already been and will continue to be a treat this year.
 
Aside from the generous collection of items we gathered to share, there will be a Santa showing up a week early in Tres Equis, Costa Rica this year thanks to all the ERA folks who supported our trip t-shirt program.

Our trip t-shirt program was initiated in the early years of our trips here in Costa Rica.  Our goal was two-fold: 1).Come up with a collector’s item t-shirt for all of our friends who were so generous to come to Costa Rica and paddle with us—a design that would be unique each year; and 2).Give something back to the rivers we enjoy so much. 
 
Years ago we learned that it was very selfish of kayakers to try and convince a region to not dam up their river just because we wanted to continue to paddle there (we learned this on the Bio Bio River in Chile).  We had to make it economically beneficial for a community to not support a hydro project that could (or not) bring them more prosperity.  The course we took was to a) try and economically support the local community as much as possible through patronage and b) to prove our long term commitment to the area.  Education!! 

We began our program by seeking out any organization who was working to educate the locals as to the fact that they had a voice in what happens to their natural resources. When that did not pan out as well as we hoped, we turned to the generation that will count the most: the youth. 

With the help of Tico Rafting, a local rafting company in Turrialba, we organized an annual raft trip for a school group to join us on the Pacuare River for the day. This provided the opportunity for students to raft the river (which at $75 a pop, was not really an option for most), and for them to witness extranjeros appreciating their local river.  It was impressionable for students to see extranjeros traveling from so far away just to kayak on their rivers.  We then followed up several years’ of raft trips with more education.  We turned to the schools themselves, and decided to identify a needy school near one of the rivers we so love and donated school supplies to them. 

Last year we supported the small school outside of Bajo Pacuare on the Upper Upper Pacuare River.  This year we targeted a small school in Tres Equis—near the put-in for the Lower Pacuare.  With only 30 students, we were told the Tres Equis school is considered the poorest in the region. 
 
Once the trips were over and all the shirts accounted for, we headed to Costa Rica’s version of Price Mart and loaded up Miguel’s van with school supplies. Paper, tablets, backpacks, pens and pencils, world globes, glue sticks and rulers, all into Miguel’s van they went.  And then we headed over to deliver the supplies.  That was Part One of a two part plan.  Part two was actually finding the school!  After seven hours in the van, we were not quite successful. We knew where the school was: another hour minimum at the end of a very bad road.  But we were running out of day light. And had a flight to catch the next morning.  So we left it up to Santa Miguel to deliver the supplies this next week!
 
Thanks to all our friends who helped donate such a collection of soaps, crèmes, shampoos, cosmetics—and particularly the Chanel perfume (boy are there some good smells from one end of Costa Rica to Ecuador)…and to all who donated to a trip t-shirt.

There is no harm in giving something back to the rivers that give us so much enjoyment!!
 
   
 

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The Week Everything Was Difficult

| Posted in Southern Connection Tales |

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So call it a difficult decision to leave the hot tubs Thursday night to make it in time for a delicious dinner.  But not as difficult as leaving the Sarapiqui that afternoon—when there was still a chance at seeing another toucan flying overhead. 

Then there was the difficulty of Wednesday–which was such a good day on the Pacuare with the kind of sunshine and optimum water levels that we had to tear ourselves away (of course, the cold cervezas at the takeout made it a little easier). 

And it was certainly a bit difficult to refrain from laughing the day Peter nearly jumped out of his skin after being surprised by a couple of iguanas at the iguana bridge. Sure we were laughing with him at that moment!!  It was also difficult to believe what a good eye Laura had for seeing sloths in the trees (she shamed our drivers). 

Such is what we are talking about in Costa Rica when the week is difficult!!
 
Of course, finishing up the week and Friday evening presented the difficulty of dealing with 5PM rush hour traffic on the way back into San Jose after a week of being away from all the traffic (the cows and the slow going pace are more of an issue where we spend our paddling time!). And it sure was difficult leaving Turrialba knowing it was our last trip for the 2006 year.
 
But then call it a week of contradictions.  Not everything about the week was “difficult.�  It was easy to enjoy the great weather all week: starting out a bit rainy (good for water levels) and then finishing up warm with gorgeous blue skies. 

Easy was the wave we hung out at the Balsa until everyone was surfed out—over an hour later!! And it was easy to see the iguanas hanging out above us with their bright orange color (no worries about camouflage on a nice day). 

The best was how easy it was enjoying the group we had this week: a custom group from the west coast who traveled with Phil and Mary DeReimer to share Costa Rica with us.  And quite the variety: from high school to retired, seldom-seen kayakers to committed boaters; a good mix of characters for the week. And while the Salmon and the Grand Canyon might have been manys’ home turf, it seemed easy for everyone to swing into Costa Rica gear and make the most of a memorable week of paddling.
 
We had slipped so easily into the pura vida pace that the greatest difficulty was facing the fact that the week—and our season in Costa Rica was coming to an end. 

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A PotPourri of Trip!

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Summing up the past great week of boating here in Costa Rica: a “little bit of everything� would be about right. 

We had surfing at the beach, we had post rain big water paddling followed by pristine green water play days.  Our two groups consisted of as many females as men, paddlers ranging from the ages of nineteen to sixty five, father and daughter and father and son combos… playboaters and river runners… coming from anywhere from Florida to Minnesota. 

And while we just could not find the sloths this week, we had a plethora of iguana and Jesus Christ lizard sightings, as well as a first sighting for us: a spoon bill (imagine being stuck with the coloring of a flamingo and a spoon shaped beak for a nose). 
 

Halfway through the week, we changed plans after arriving at the Sarapiqui to find it up in the trees. No worries, we headed to the Reventazon for a high water run on a high water river!  The warm up rapid lasted from the put in to the next eddy–about two miles downstream!   After finishing up a rollercoaster ride down the river, we headed to Turrialba where wisps of blue sky boded well for our last two days.  And so it was, Thursday morning brought us bright blue skies peeking through the green canopy of trees that closes over the Pejibaye River.  Everything was so good about the day (especially after reading emails describing the newly fallen snow back at home!!) that we decided that our grand finale Friday would be a second run on the Pejibaye before having to return to San Jose.  And a grand finale it was–especially knowing everyone one at home was struggling to put on their dry suits. 

 

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The Rolling Stones

| Posted in Southern Connection Tales |

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Paddling in Costa Rica on a high water day is like paddling on top of a bowling alley!  We experienced this phenomena this week when we did a high water run on the Reventazon.  Underneath us, the round boulders that formed the river bed rolled about due to the fast moving high water current racing downstream. The noise is unsettling the first time you hear it.  The loud clanking of the boulders creates a sound that makes you look around to see who just sent the bowling ball into the pins.  Then you realize the sound is coming from below you.  The river bed is alive and constantly moving, settling, moving again. It makes an exciting run even more exciting!!
 

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